Travel Journal

After a good night’s sleep, explore the natural beauty of Yamanaka Onsen by taking a stroll through the lush and beautiful Kakusenkei Gorge. The natural scenery here changes with each season, but all times of the year are equally beautiful.

Walking about 10 minutes from the hotel, as you turn right down the main street of Yamanaka Onsen, look for the sloped path to Korogi Bridge before the entrance to the Kagari Kisshotei Hotel (with the giant crab sign out front). Follow the paved path to Korogi Bridge, a bridge built entirely of Japanese cypress that has become the icon of Yamanaka Onsen.

Crossing the bridge, follow the road left to the stairs leading down to the Kakusenkei Gorge Promenade. The path is paved with natural rocks and surrounded by the lush foliage of the mountains like a scene plucked straight from a Ghibli animated film. You could walk the entire promenade in 20 minutes, but take your time and absorb the beauty and negative ions emanating from the trees; several paths lead down to the river’s edge for closer views.

Eventually, you’ll arrive at Kakusenkei Kawadoko, a small café made up of a set of wooden platforms built at the foot of a small waterfall. Order a coffee, tea, and perhaps a slice of cake and sit on the platform enjoying the view of the river as you take a short break. (The café is open from April to November each year.) Continuing just a few minutes farther, take the stairs up to Ayatori Bridge, a modern steel bridge with an s-curve with a panoramic view of the gorge below.

After Ayatori Bridge, walk back along the main road in the direction you came from toward your next destination, Yamanaka Asada Craft of Japan Ware. Along the main road, browse a few of the many shops offering locally produced handicrafts such as woodwork, lacquerware, and ceramics. Local artisans have been making these beautiful crafts for generations, so select a few items to take home as memories of your time in Yamanaka Onsen.

30-minute walk to…

Yamanaka Onsen is famous for its wood handicrafts, particularly those made by applying lacquer, known as Yamanaka shikki. Although there are modern and traditional forms of Yamanaka lacquerware, the traditional form is distinguished by the natural wood grain remaining visible under the lacquer coating. This traditional craft, called mokusei shikki, began in this part of Ishikawa Prefecture in the late 16th century. Yamanaka Onsen became a significant producer of wooden lacquerware throughout from the early 17th century well into the 20th century, when plastic products became more widely used.

Asada Craft of Japan Ware is a local shop offering the true experience of creating wooden lacquerware products. While other shops offer painting on objects that have already been lacquered, this shop teaches the technique of applying the lacquer to wood products. The process is quite simple, and it would be easy to make an entire set of bowls or other utensils in a short time. We found it extremely satisfying to be able to choose our own lacquer color and vigorously rub it into the wood with our own hands.

The lacquered products must dry in a high-humidity environment, so Asada ships the finished products to your home about 10 days after your visit to nearly any address in the world. This leaves you free to fill your luggage with other purchases in Japan and still receive your handmade lacquerware products in perfect condition when you arrive back home.

15-minute walk to Ohanami Kyubei to pick up your luggage. Ask the staff to call you a taxi to…

Deep in the Ishikawa countryside, you may be surprised to find such a chic French bistro as Enuma Station. As you’ll find out, Yamanaka Onsen holds many surprises for those who take the time to visit. Chef Kazuyuki Kuchide prepares elaborate plates of French cuisine mainly using the local ingredients available in the Kaga region, varying with the seasons. In early Fall, lunch consists of an appetizer made from locally caught seafood, eggplant, cheese, and figs; sweet and creamy butternut squash and almond milk soup; and grilled chicken seared with shio koji, a healthy and delicious seasoning made using a similar fermentation process to sake brewing. The restaurant’s sommelier will help recommend Japanese sake and French wines to pair with your meal.

The restaurant ambiance is relaxing and inviting, with the soothing sounds of jazz playing on a real tube amplifier and an interior that is uncluttered and spacious. The husband and wife team running the Enuma Station treats even first-time visitors as if they were regular customers, with a warmth matching the atmosphere and food of the restaurant.

You might want to ask your hotel concierge to make a lunch reservation for you so they know you are coming.

About a 10-minute stroll down…

A delightful way to explore Yamanaka is to sample the various ice creams available at different shops throughout the town. Look for the colorful banner outside of participating shops, and inside you’ll find one of nearly 50 types of ice cream on sale throughout the town. In addition, a map brochure is available in most shops showing the locations of each shop selling ice cream. So sample a few of your favorites as you stroll through the quaint neighborhood.

You’ll end your stroll in the plaza of the Kiku no Yu public bathhouse. Here you can catch the Canbus, which will return you to Kaga-onsen Station. From there, it is a quick ride to Kyoto on the Limited Express Thunderbird train.

Such a short trip to Ishikawa to experience the arts and crafts culture will only whet your appetite for more. I know I will be returning to take a deeper dive into the world of beautiful things that are being created here and learn more about Ishikawa’s strong connections to the arts.

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